Sheldon Brown only says there was a fad for them in around 1986-88 on the back brake of mountain bikes. I would agree with his view that adjusting the rear brake under the lower chain stays is difficult. I removed the pads completely (he calls them brake shoes), held the brake arms as close to the wheel as possible, pulled the cable tight, and tightened the nut. Exactly how I managed this with only two hands I can't remember. It slacks off a bit, then the pads/shoes can be installed. The rear pads are like this:
As above, they can be moved in and out to get closer to the wheel rim.
The front pads and brake arms are different, the pads have a threaded section on top, they cannot be adjusted in the same way as the rear ones can.
Chain-guard. It was getting hit by the crank. Where it is connected to the frame, near the bottom bracket, I used a longer bolt and inserted a 1/4" nyloc nut with it thread drilled out, so it acts as a spacer, pulling the chain-guard about 6mm to the port side. Now the guard is a little close to the chain ring and barely touched it at times, I just gave it a bit of persuasion and it seems OK now. I have a feeling if this bike is folded and loaded on and off trains, planes and automobiles, the chain-guard may need adjustment from time to time.
I have also now installed a vintage Cateye Vectra computer, CC-7000, it needs a new battery. I think this might be 20 years old:
No comments:
Post a Comment